Heating and cooling systems typically last between 10 to 20 years. As your equipment ages, you'll likely notice decreased efficiency, increased noise, and more frequent repair needs. When your system starts showing these signs of age, you have two options: overhaul the existing system or replace it entirely. Since HVAC technology continually improves, installing a new, more energy-efficient system often makes financial sense, especially if your current equipment is over 10 years old. We can provide cost estimates for new systems along with payback projections that demonstrate how modern technology will save you money through reduced energy consumption.

We don't recommend replacing only the outdoor unit as this approach can reduce your system's efficiency by up to 15%. Additionally, this partial replacement may lead to premature system failure and typically voids manufacturers' warranties. For optimal performance and longevity, it's essential to replace the indoor cooling coil whenever you install a new outdoor unit.

Contrary to what many believe, an oversized air conditioning system isn't better for your home. While larger systems cool spaces faster, they consume more energy and fail to remove humidity effectively. Oversized units run in short cycles, shutting off before adequate moisture can be removed from the air. This excess humidity can create conditions favorable for mold and mildew growth. Additionally, frequent starting and stopping wastes energy and accelerates wear on system components. Air conditioners function most efficiently during extended run cycles. The same principle applies to heating systems, where oversized furnaces use more fuel and cause uncomfortable temperature fluctuations throughout your home.

Matched system components are crucial for several reasons. First, they ensure optimal comfort by providing precise control over your heating and cooling needs. When all components are properly sized for your specific home, the system maintains appropriate cycle times, effectively controls humidity, and operates quietly. Second, matched systems deliver superior efficiency. Many homeowners have oversized systems that waste energy. A properly matched system, determined by a professional load calculation, provides exactly the right amount of heating and cooling capacity for your home, maximizing the value of your energy dollars.

Regular air filter replacement is essential for system performance. Clogged filters restrict airflow, forcing your furnace to work harder and use more energy to maintain desired temperatures. The replacement frequency depends on several factors including the filter type, whether you have pets, and the size of your equipment. Please contact us for personalized guidance on the ideal replacement schedule for your specific situation.

High-efficiency air filters benefit both your HVAC system and your family's health. Without proper filtration, dust and debris accumulate within your system, compromising operation and reducing efficiency. High-efficiency filters remove more airborne particles including dust, dirt, pollen, mold spores, and other contaminants. If you or family members suffer from allergies or respiratory conditions, a high-efficiency filter is particularly beneficial. Regardless of the filter type you choose, consistent replacement is essential for system performance.

Annual maintenance for your heating and cooling equipment is highly recommended. Regular professional servicing helps reduce energy consumption, minimize repair costs, prevent unexpected breakdowns, and extend equipment lifespan. Without proper maintenance, you'll experience a gradual decline in system performance while simultaneously seeing an increase in energy usage.

Service agreements provide financial protection against unexpected repair costs. Without warranty coverage, system breakdowns can result in significant expenses for both parts and labor. Our service agreements help you avoid these sudden costs. While no warranty covers every possible issue, we'd be happy to explain the comprehensive protection our service agreements provide for your heating system.

Installing a high-efficiency air cleaner can remove up to 99% of pollen and spores that enter your home. These systems also significantly reduce household dust, dirt, smoke, and other airborne pollutants. The result is cleaner, fresher indoor air with fewer circulating allergens and contaminants. Additionally, a whole-house humidifier can alleviate the discomfort associated with dry indoor air, including itchy skin, scratchy throats, and static electricity, while also protecting your furnishings and woodwork. Since humid air feels warmer than dry air, you can maintain comfort at lower thermostat settings, reducing your energy costs.

Mold is naturally present outdoors where it helps decompose organic matter, but indoor mold growth should be prevented. Mold reproduces through tiny airborne spores that can settle on wet surfaces inside your home and begin growing. All mold varieties require moisture to thrive. In HVAC systems, problems often develop when water condenses on cooling coils and drips into collection pans. If this drainage system becomes blocked, stagnant water creates ideal conditions for mold growth, which can quickly spread spores throughout your home. Mold issues can also occur when HVAC ductwork harbors microscopic spores that continuously circulate. To prevent mold in your system, we recommend: 1) Regular preventative maintenance to ensure collection pans remain clean and unclogged, 2) Installing ultraviolet lights near cooling coils to eliminate mold and bacteria, and 3) Maintaining clean ductwork with high-efficiency filtration to keep your entire HVAC system free of contaminants.

Duct cleaning refers to the cleaning of the various heating and cooling system components of forced air systems, including the supply and return air ducts and registers, grilles and diffusers, heat exchangers, heating and cooling coils, fan motor and fan housing, and the air handling unit housing.

SEER, AFUE, and HSPF are all measures of energy efficiency. Air conditioners may look similar, but their Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER) can vary widely. Higher SEER numbers save more money spent on electricity. A 13 SEER air conditioner, the EPA "current minimum standard", uses 23% less energy than a 10 SEER unit (EPA standard up until Jan. 2006). Even though 13 SEER is the minimum efficiency available, we currently offer a line of air conditioners that start at 13 SEER and go all the way up to 21 SEER. Depending on your average usage, higher SEER air conditioners can significantly reduce your electric bill. Heat pumps have SEER ratings like air conditioners and Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) ratings for measuring heating efficiency. Higher HSPF ratings mean greater energy savings. The HSPF scale range is 7.5 to 13.0. Today's new high-efficiency furnaces can save up to 50% in operating costs over a ten-year-old furnace. Many 1990 and earlier model furnaces have Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratings of 65% or less. The minimum AFUE-rated furnace that can be sold in the United States as of May 1, 2013, is 80% in southern states and 90% in northern states. Our current product offering starts at this minimum AFUE rating and goes all the way to a very efficient 98.3% AFUE rating. Depending on your average usage, higher AFUE-rated furnaces can significantly reduce your gas bill.

Upgrade to a high-efficiency air conditioner - Swapping your old, inefficient air conditioning system for a high-efficiency one can cut electricity bills by one-third. Consult one of our professional technicians to ensure your system is the right size for your home, and you aren't over- or under-cooling for your space needs. Turn up the temperature — To save electricity during the summer, set the temperature above 75° as every degree below this will add an extra three to five percent to your energy bill. Install ceiling fans — Change the direction of airflow on your ceiling fans. In the summer, the blades should operate in a counter-clockwise direction as a way of creating a nice, gentle wind. Have an annual maintenance performed — Having an annual maintenance performed on your air conditioner by a licensed technician will help ensure it operates at its peak efficiency and catches any potential breakdowns before they occur. Don't block vents in well-used rooms — Keep your supply and return air vents free of objects like blinds, carpets, or furniture so your air conditioner can operate efficiently, and there is even cool air distribution. Heating Upgrade to a high-efficiency furnace — New high-efficiency furnaces use up to 50% less fuel than older systems. It can save you up to 25 percent of your home-heating costs in one year, and within a few years, you'll have recovered the initial cost of replacing/upgrading your furnace. Choosing a model with an energy-efficient motor can save 20 to 50 percent of the energy needed to continuously operate a fan motor. Let us show you the advantages of replacing your old furnace today. Have an annual maintenance performed — Having an annual maintenance performed on your furnace by a licensed technician will help ensure it operates at its peak efficiency and catches any potential breakdowns before they occur. Install a programmable thermostat — A programmable thermostat enables you to control your home's temperature when you're away or asleep. For every 1° you lower your thermostat for seven hours per day, you save one percent on your heating bill. Don't block vents in well-used rooms — Keep your supply and return air vents free of objects like blinds, carpets, or furniture so your furnace can operate efficiently, and there is even heat distribution. Install ceiling fans — Change the direction of airflow on your ceiling fans. In the winter, the blades should operate in a clockwise direction, helping to push the warm air from the ceiling

Heat pumps are a great solution for your home comfort system because they work to provide both heating and cooling. Heat pumps have SEER ratings like air conditioners and Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) ratings for measuring heating efficiency. Higher SEER and HSPF ratings mean greater energy savings. Heat pumps are a very efficient alternative to electric heat. A heat pump works the same as an air conditioner in the summer, but it runs in reverse in the winter to heat your home. The system will be matched with a backup heating source, most often electric heat for those extremely cold days of winter.

With a traditional heating and cooling system, if you wanted to save more, you had to use less. But a Hybrid Heat system combines the benefits of intelligent control for both gas and electric heating to create an intuitive system that can actually react to changing conditions. No matter what the temperature is outside, a Hybrid Heat system will automatically select the fuel source most efficient for your home, which means you'll stay warm in the winter, cool in the summer, and save money all year long. To design a Hybrid Heat system for your home, we professionally match one of our heat pump units with a natural gas furnace. Contact us to see how much energy you can save over your existing system.

Variable speed fans operate on a simple principle: they are able to spin at different speeds depending on the heating and cooling needs of your home. Usually, they operate at lower speeds, delivering a steady, reliable stream of warm or cool air to your home. This helps control humidity levels, utility costs and system noise. When conditions become more extreme, the fan speed increases so that the system can meet increased demand, guaranteeing that on even the hottest days or coldest nights, you're comfort needs will be met.

2-stage cooling is a method of cooling that can better manage the cooling of your home while outdoor temperatures are changing. It can also better maximize indoor comfort and energy efficiency. 2-stage cooling systems are typically the most energy-efficient systems out there. 2-stage cooling can be done by having one unit with two compressors, one small and one large. The small one is typically capable of putting out about 50% the capacity of the larger one. The second way to have 2-stage cooling is to have a single scroll unloading compressor. This compressor can unload its capacity down to about 66% of maximum capacity. Both these methods of getting 2-stage cooling allow the unit to run at a lower stage when the high stage is not needed. By doing this, energy is saved. 2-stage heating has the same principle as 2-stage cooling. It allows the unit to adjust itself based on the amount of heating that is necessary. 2-stage heating is a good way to save on heating costs. A heat pump system would have two different-sized compressors, a small one and a large one. The compressor that is used at a given time would depend on the need. If only a small amount of heating is necessary, the smaller compressor would be used to save energy. The large compressor would only be used when a large amount of heating was needed. A gas furnace that is 2-stage has a modulating gas valve that regulates gas flow depending on the need.

Normal cooling settings are 75 degrees - 80 degrees. Normal heating settings are 68 degrees - 72 degrees. You should always set your thermostat to the highest possible setting that is comfortable for you in the summer, and the lowest comfortable setting in the winter. Setting your thermostat in this way will maximize your energy savings. On average, every 1 degree of temperature change is equal to about 1% energy savings. For example, changing your thermostat setting from 75 degrees to 76 degrees in the summer could result in savings on your cooling costs.

This can occur for many reasons: uneven solar heat load through windows, an undersized system, an improperly balanced or clogged system, or a single system serving a two-story home with no zoning control. Each situation is different, usually requiring an on-site analysis with problem-specific recommendations. Please call to arrange for us to see your home.

Yes. As of January 2010, the refrigerant R-22 (what consumers call Freon®) is no longer allowed to be used in the manufacturing of new equipment. R-22 has been used as the "standard" refrigerant for many years, but has been found to be harmful to our planet by our government. All new air conditioners and heat pumps use R-410A, the more "environmentally sound" refrigerant. R-22 is still the most commonly used refrigerant in existing air conditioning equipment in residential homes today. However, per the Montreal Protocol, caps have been established to eliminate the production of R-22. In 2004, there was a 35% reduction; in 2010, there was a 65% reduction; in 2015, a 90% reduction; and finally, in 2020, a 99.5% reduction in the production of R-22. This means that during the time of these reductions with high demand, the price of each pound of R-22 refrigerant could potentially skyrocket. If you are considering replacing your existing air conditioning equipment, most higher efficiency products have already made the switch to R-410A, the more "environmentally sound" refrigerant.

A difference of 6 decibels (such as between 72 dB and 78 dB) is technically a fourfold increase in compressor sound when rating air conditioners or heat pump units. However, it takes a difference of 10 decibels to double the loudness. It is also noted that it takes approximately 3 decibels for the average human ear to discern any difference in loudness at all. Great strides have been made in reducing the operating sound level of equipment. We will be happy to show you the difference in sound ratings with our product line.

Yes. Each year, carbon monoxide kills more than 200 Americans and sends nearly 5,000 more to emergency rooms for treatment, reports the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). Where does it come from? When carbon-based fuels such as gas, oil, kerosene or wood burn, they produce gases. When fuel combustion or burning isn't complete, carbon monoxide enters the air. The CPSC advises that carbon monoxide detectors are the only way to alert yourself to the presence of toxic gas in your home. If you wake in the night with a headache -- and especially if another member of the family complains of a headache or is difficult to arouse -- get out of the house fast and seek medical help. We recommend that carbon monoxide detectors be installed in your home!

Propane (LP) gas: You have this type if your gas comes from a tank located outside close to your house. Propane is stored as a liquid under pressure in tanks and cylinders. In most residential applications, propane is used as a vapor. When liquid propane changes into a gas vapor, it expands in volume. This means that even a small leak of liquid propane can result in a much larger quantity of propane vapor, which can be especially dangerous in a confined space. A chemical odorant has been added to propane to give it a distinct smell. Learn to identify this odor. Propane gas is heavier than air, so it will sink to the floor and spread. To check for the presence of propane, carefully smell all over a room, especially in low spots. If you smell propane (LP) gas: Exit your home immediately. Propane gas can ignite easily. Do not light a match, start an engine, use a cell phone, or do anything that may create a spark. From a safe area, contact your propane supplier and call 911. If you are able, shut the propane gas supply off at the tank. Stay away from your home until you've been told that it is safe to return. Natural gas: You have this type if you have a gas meter and pay a natural gas supplier or utility. A chemical odorant has been added to natural gas to give it a distinct smell. Learn to identify this odor. If you smell natural gas: Exit your home immediately. Do not light a match, start an engine, use a cell phone, or do anything that may create a spark. From a safe area, contact your gas company or call 911. If you are able, turn the gas off at the meter. Stay away from your home until you've been told that it is safe to return.

The water heater Energy Factor (EF) is a measure of the overall efficiency of the water heater. This is determined by comparing the energy in the heated water used daily to the total daily energy consumption of the water heater. The EF can be used to compare the energy efficiency of water heaters. Water heaters with higher EFs will have lower annual operating costs than comparable models with lower EFs. A higher EF signifies a more efficient model. Water heaters with high EF ratings may cost more initially, but save energy and money in the long run. Eventually, they will pay for themselves through a lifetime of energy savings.

For most water heaters, the anode rod is attached to the hot water outlet of the water heater. If you are facing the front of the water heater (where the labels are), the hot water outlet is on the left-hand side. The anode rod is often referred to as a "sacrificial rod". Most water is rarely "pure". It can contain oxygen, magnesium, fluoride, chlorine, and suspended particles. These components, in the concentrations in your water, are usually not bad for you. However, they do contribute to the taste and smell of the water. They also impart a slight conductivity to the water. Through an electrical process called electrolysis, this conductivity will eventually (over a long period of time) cause most metals to rust or corrode. When the water is heated, this electrical process can be accelerated. Most water heaters are made of a steel tank with a porcelain enamel (glass) lining. However, due to production and assembly methods, it is not always possible to completely cover the inside of the tank. Therefore, it is important to provide metal that can be consumed by the electrical process. This is where the sacrificial anode rod comes in. By acting as a lightning rod for the corrosion process, the anode rod draws the harmful electrolytic process away from the water heater tank and focuses the corrosion on the anode rod. Water heaters need this sacrificial anode rod to ensure that the electrolysis does not affect the tanks.

The answer may be that you have sediment buildup in your tank. As water heaters age, they tend to accumulate sediment and lime deposits. If the heaters are not cleaned periodically, the sediment may rise to a level that will act as a barrier between the burner and the water, making it harder to heat. An article published in a national ASPE plumbing journal states that for every half inch of sediment on the bottom of a gas-fired water heater, it requires up to 70% more fuel to heat the water.

Yes. The Air-Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI) recommends that any flood-damaged heating and cooling equipment be replaced, not repaired. From the AHRI website, as it pertains to water heaters: "Whether your water heater is gas-fired, oil-fired, or electric, if it was exposed to flood water, the unit should be replaced. In a gas unit, valves and controls will likely corrode. In an electric unit, the thermostat and controls will likely corrode. In both types, the insulation surrounding the unit will be contaminated and will be nearly impossible to disinfect. Additionally, the insulation would take a long time to dry, leading to corrosion of the tank from the outside. Even if water heater components have been cleaned and the unit seems to operate properly, parts may corrode in the future. Both gas and electric water heaters have a pressure relief valve that can corrode and stick after being exposed to flood water. Therefore, be sure to replace this valve as well." (Taken from www.ahrinet.org) At the suggestion of AHRI, be sure to have your inspection and replacement work performed by a qualified professional.

With the increasing costs of energy and a desire for environmental friendliness, some customers are turning to the sun as a way to heat their domestic water. Bradford White manufactures a solar water heating storage tank for use with solar systems. This tank takes the heated water from the solar panels and uses it as a heat source instead of conventional gas, oil, or electric heat sources. Unlike other tanks, this water heater has an electric heating element for backup on cloudy days and when the solar system is not providing enough heat. However, it is important that you use only POTABLE (or domestic use) water in this tank.

A water heater should be placed in an area that will prevent damage to floors, ceilings, and furniture if the heater leaks. When this is not possible, a drain pan must be installed under the water heater. Since a typical drain pan doesn't hold that much water, it must have a pipe to a drain or other outlet for the water. When installed properly, a drain pan and pipe will keep any leakage under control and protect your belongings from water damage.

We recommend that you contact a plumbing professional to perform any maintenance or repairs to your water heater - from periodic checks on the anode rod to ensuring that all connections are secure. Recommendations for maintenance are in your water heater's owner's manual. However, there are a few things that you can do: Ensure that there are no sources of flammable vapors in the same area as your water heater (this includes gasoline, heating oils, lighter fluid, propane, etc.). Keep the top of the water heater clean. If you notice water dripping on the water heater from any piping, contact a plumbing professional to have the leak repaired. Keep the space around your water heater clean and free of dirt, boxes, paint cans, aerosol cans, household cleaners, and trash. It is important to keep the heater accessible for proper operation and easy maintenance.